Surfing is the definition of stoked or if there was a definition of stoked it would coincide with just literally wave riding
The key to hapinnes is to become a surfer
It's easy
Easy
Keep it Easy
I was at high school and I wasn't going to college or university
And my mom was bummed but I told her I had bigger dream in surfing
And they believed in me and let me go and I was just blown away
My dream come true
All the stuff I had seen in movies times a hundred
And at first, you know, I was kind of shy and scared and nervous
And overtime I realize I started this dream and I got all that and it was awesome
But it's hard, you know, you gotta stay focused on that and there are so many distractions
And when I was young I was distracted so easy that it took me time to figure out the right formula
You know, to find the balance to be able to do well
I don't know what it is but I feel it's the not knowing where the waves coming from
And it's all pure feeling
For me it's the ultimate rush
All day I used to dream about this kind of waves